Multi-pitch climbing in Corsica – A quick overview

Geologically, Corsica can roughly be divided into two regions:

  • The Alpine Corsica or shale Corsica mainly made of shist (the North-Western third of the island): Despite its name, this part doesn’t host the highest peaks. In Alpine Corsica, multi-pitch routes are practically non-existing, but the region is home to many sport crags, mainly around Bastia.
  • The Hercynian Corsica or ancient Corsica: Dominated by granite. The highest peaks are made up of rhyolites. In this vast area (more than two-thirds of Corsica) the fate was not very fair when distributing the crags and cliffs. Some regions have been generously provided while others must be content with a few rocks emerging from the maquis.

At the junction of these “two Corsicas”, a few limestone outcrops allow you to vary the pleasure, especially in the Francardu region, north of Corti.

geological-corsica

In Corsica, the main multi-pitch routes are found almost exclusively in Hercynian Corsica (or granitic Corsica). Alpine Corsica has less than ten routes of limited size.
By playing with altitude and orientation, it is possible to climb all year round in optimal conditions.

Here is a brief overview of the main “climbing” massifs of the island.

Escalade en TA à la Paglia Orba en Corse
Multi-pitch at Paglia Orba - A siconda strada di l'Omu

Paglia Orba

The Paglia Orba is the most prestigious of the Corsican mountains. It culminates at 2525m and all its faces offer climbing possibilities. It is the ideal place to climb in Summer, only if you master trad climbing and have a “mountain foot”. At La Paglia, there are no bolts and rather alpine approaches.

For a more detailed presentation of climbing at the Paglia Orba click here.

The Upper Ascu Valley

The Upper Ascu Valley is surrounded by many rhyolitic peaks suitable for climbing. The routes are mainly trad or mixed and the approaches, of variable duration, are generally steep in rocky terrain (without being technical). The ideal period is from the end of April to the end of September.

For a detailed presentation of climbing in the Upper Ascu valley, click here.

Grande voie d'escalade en terrain d'aventure à la Petite Colonne de Marcia - Ascu en Corse
Multi-pitch in the Upper Ascu valley - Voie de l'apprentissage (variante)
Grande voie d'escalade Entre ombre et lumière dans les gorges du Tavignanu à Corte
Multi-pitch climbing - Tavignanu valley - Ombre et lumière

The Corti region

It was in Corti that the first PGHM (mountain rescuers team) in Corsica was established. In the 90s, its members bolted many routes in the valleys of Tavignanu and Restonica. ‘’PGHM bolting’’ (a term that has been established today) favours climbing with pleasure. These routes have greatly contributed to the democratization of climbing in Corsica. The two valleys that meet at Corti are well known to climbers.
The Tavignanu valley can be summed up by the superb Russulinu crag while the long Restonica valley allows you to climb almost all year round, except for the winter months. Bolted routes are in the majority, but in the Upper Restonica Valley, bolted routes run alongside with mixed or trad routes.

About 20km from Corti, on the road to Aiacciu (Ajaccio), you find the Cervellu massif: With two distinct peaks, it is perfect for the long off seasons. From 5c, everyone will find something that suits them, bolted or not

The west coast

On the west coast, near the Gulf of Portu, the superb walls of Capu d’Ortu, E tre Signore and especially I Cascioni offer multi-pitch routes for experienced climbers.
The Capu d’Ortu is entirely reserved for trad climbing. On the Signore Centrale and Occidentale, the multi-pitch routes are bolted or mixed. Finally, a little further inland, the overhanging wall of the Cascioni is reserved for the high level climbing. For more information on rock climbing in the Portu area, click here.

The small massif of Gozzi at the entrance of Aiacciu, has about twenty multi-pitch routes, mostly bolted. The season runs from October to the end of April.

Multi-pitch climbing around Portu - I Cascioni
Grande voie d'escalade dans le massif de Bavella - Carlos Ascensao dans la voie Le temps des innocents.
Multi-pitch climbing in the Bavella massif - Le temps des innocents

Bavella

The Bavella massif is probably the home to half of Corsica’s multi-pitch routes. This island within the island, cut off from the other climbing massifs, is self-sufficient.
During Summer, every day, thousands of people come to visit the Massif, but do not panic, the vast majority do not go more than 100m from the road and the rest practice canyoning. The climbers are privileged, because except from a few hyper-classics such as Le Dos d’éléphant, Jeef, or La Périllat, there will be no crowds.
The walls range from 600m asl. to 1700m asl., allowing you to climb all year round. Over the years, the first ascents have followed fashions and technological developments, thus offering a complete variety of multi-pitch climbing. Bavella is the climbing supermarket with the spirit of the local grocery store: From pure and hard trad climbing to fully bolted routes, you can find everything there at all levels and all styles.
The friction slabs and the XXL size tafoni have made Bavella’s reputation. But there is also a large number of crack of all sizes. And then there are all those “non-specialized” routes that offer a sample of all of this, and more!
As the days pass, you discover the ravines, these communication arteries across the massif, you recognize the summits, you get to know the locals and the team of the bar ‘’Auberge du Col’’… you fell in love with Bavella.